14 Feb About my Dior Dress
Posted at 06:00h in Off-the-Rails Sewing Patterns, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block 0 Comments
It all began when I came across this fabulous Dior Dress from 2012, and decided it was the perfect idea for a classic dress design. Imagine a stretch bodice, that fits easily and is very comfortable to wear. Then add a very special skirt, using signature fabric. The simplicity of the idea was just so attractive to me. And simplicity is something I really admire in both the design and construction of fashion clothing. And now that classic simplicity is available to you with my new sewing pattern: The Dior Dress, available in 6 sizes, including detailed cutting and sewing instructions.
My first sample had a pleated skirt, and because of the straight grain on the waist line I had to add a zip so I could get the dress over my head. I really enjoy the vintage skirt effect of the pleats but find the zip in the side seam uncomfortable and potentially unnecessary. So the next step was to find a way to make this dress without a zip if possible.
I made my second sample with a half-circle skirt and felt it was so much more successful. Because the waist of the half-circle skirt cuts across the bias gain in two places, it means that there is some stretch where the woven fabric meets the stretch fabric on the waist seam. As a result there was no need for a zip in the side seam as this dress could be pulled on over the head. It’s worth noting that the fit on the waist is not tight with a generous amount of garment ease included.
Since this revelation I’ve made several of these dresses for different occasions. For a more casual daywear style I’ve used a black, white and grey camo in the skirt. I’ve also been able to use the waste fabric from cutting the circle to add a 3 metre bias ruffle on the hemline of this dress.
And more recently a dressy version where I’ve mixed three different fabrics in the skirt for a more luxurious look. The fit on the waist of the dress is not tight. In fact it’s loose enough to be comfortable even after a big meal. A tighter fit could be achieved on the waist if desired, but you may find the need for a side seam zip to get it over your head.
The appeal of this design is how easy it is to cut and make and how comfortable it is to wear. The bodice is ponti double knit, and makes up as quickly as any tee-shirt. There is a slight delay because you’ll have to cut and hang your half-circle skirt for at least a day or two before levelling. However as soon as it’s levelled, seamed and hemmed all you need to do is sew the waist seam and your dress is finished. Every one of these dresses needs a statement waist belt to add definition to the waist line.