30 Jun Turnback Thinking
- Find yourself a loose fit top or dress that you have made before and know that it fits.
- Trace a copy of the front and back (half bodice) and include a tracing of the sleeve.
- Shape the neckline to suit your own style (this will work with ‘V’ necks and rounds).
- Mark in a side seam that ensures a loose fit.
- If using a Kimono block, build in the pattern detail that is your gusset.
- Mark in your sleeve length, and calculate the sleeve opening to suit the style.
- Draw in your diagonal lines, joining the ‘CF neck to the bottom of the side seam’.
- Then join your ‘CB neck to the bottom of your side seam’.
- Shape the side seam to the diagonal line, clearly defining the end of the side seam for easier sewing.
- Map the shape needed for half front and half back adding the diagonal section to the other side of the CF/CB.
- Copy the front and back sleeve as whole pattern (for the kimono block).
- Make a second copy of the front and back patterns as above.
- Join them together on the hem fold, making sure they are facing in different directions. (Looks like the king and queen on the playing cards.)
- I have placed the grainline (on the front and back) from mid-shoulder point to mid-shoulder point. This dislocation of the grain is what produces the twist behaviour in the hemline.
- If you require more twist then push the grain further off the centre front lines.
- Cut this pattern on a single-lay of your cloth, tracing a pair of the sleeve patterns and one each of the front and back.
In conclusion, the key ideas in this pattern development are:
- That it is the placement of the grain that creates the twist in the hem fold of the garment. The pattern itself is not twisted.
- That the fabric choosen is good on both sides and drapes well. If you are using a light transparent fabric for this style, be sure to have the finest finishes on all seams and hems.
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