10 Jun Off-the-shoulder Twist Top
Posted at 10:29h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block 2 Comments
The detailed solution to Saturday’s Pattern Puzzle. Using a Studio Faro Knit Block I trace out the front and back blocks with side seams facing each other with a minimum 6cm gap. Also, trace out the knit sleeve that belongs to the block. Following are the details of the pattern plan.
PATTERN PLAN – In this order:
- Trace your knit block (two-way stretch) and mark in the neckline and the width of the folded band.
- Use your neckline measurements to draft up the neckband (folded).
- For a more comfortable fit, drop the underarm points and increase the width of the top at the underarm point.
- You can then draw in the side seam straight to the hem.
- Increase the length of the top to just past the hip line by about3-4cm (1 ¼” – 1 ⅝”).
- FOR THE SLEEVE – Trace out the knit sleeve block and drop the top of sleeve head to line up with the neckband on the bodice.
- Then drop the top arm line and underarm point to match what you did for the bodice.
- Mark in the measurement for the three-quarter length of the sleeve.
MAKING THE PATTERN
This large, apparently simple pattern shape is the main pattern piece for a self-lined jersey mesh top. Please use two-way stretch (mesh) knits only! Have a close look at the way the armholes and necklines are set out (double notches are the back armhole). There is a half body/circumference twist in the making of this garment. The sleeve is also self-lined but no twist. The neckband is a folded pattern piece.There is only one side seam and it is the first seam you sew. Then fold the bottom up to the top with wrong sides together and right side of fabric outside. It’s at this point that you twist the layers in the body to make opposite underarm points come together (half-body twist). Sounds a little tricky but once you have attempted this style you will see the simplicity of the idea.
Below is a similar version of this idea with a lower, wider neckline. I put this style through a small production run many years ago in this rich autumn floral stretch jersey mesh – very light and stretchy and ideal for this amount (half-body) of twist.