Well Suited

To begin the release of my blocks and patterns I'll be working with a size chart that covers sizes 6-22.  It's the chart that I have used for over 25 years and it has proved to be accurate to many aspects of the Australian market.  However venturing into making sewing patterns I feel the need to expand the sizes in the range.  Some designs will only come in sizes 6-16 while other designs will be graded 6-22.  Make sure you've subscribed to my website newsletter so you hear about new releases.

Inspired by fans, I've finally had a go at the Kimono Twist Dress from the Pattern Puzzles series.  My first pattern was cut from a knit kimono block that I made from my Basic Knit Block that's now available here.  I used a mid-weight two-way stretch jersey in a near-block aubergine.  And although I've identified some issues for improvement, this first sample's not too shabby.

When I look at the vast amount of pattern making posts I've blogged since 2013, I'm overwhelmed!  So I've no idea how you're all coping out there.  I'm going to make an attempt to curate some of the posts into different categories so you can use them for a little gentle pattern making.  Many of you ask for online training, so this isn't a bad place to start by working your way through the accumulated knowledge in these posts.  I'll be Highlighting some of my posts that are particularly friendly for the beginner pattern maker.

Trawling through my blog post archive I've come to realise that many of my posts have vintage content, and I discover there are at least twenty vintage posts!  So this Vintage Inspired Round-Up is to refresh your memory of some of my earlier Pattern Puzzle posts and to share a few points in history where vintage style has influenced my work.  Where does it all start?

We've already worked out how important it is to consider the effects you want from your permanent pleating and how that may impact on the overall design of the garment.  The examples below show the variable impact of the decision to Hem Before or Hem After.  Both skirts are half-circle.  The skirt on the left is Sun-ray Pleated and the skirt on the right is Sun-ray Crush pleated.  The more precise and formal aspect of the Sun-ray pleat (left) really suits the clean finish of hemming before sending to the pleaters.  Whereas the example on the right, with a more casual, rough pleating style, visually benefits from the kick in the hemline as a result of sewing the hem after pleating.

Back in the land of blogging and I've made a #FirstSample of the Vivienne Drape Dress.  I've recently turned this #PatternPuzzle into an afternoon workshop that I hold at the studio.  Students spend an afternoon in the studio and leave with this pattern completed in their size of choice.  We always start with my Women's Fitted Dress Block (PDF available) and every student builds a pattern plan for the development of this special design.

For this #PatternPuzzle post, you have an elegant Drape Skirt that can be cut from my basic skirt block or any pencil skirt pattern.  My Skirt Block is now available here as a PDF download.  I've included some interesting seaming that works well with the drape feature that's included in the front left skirt.

Does anyone remember this little pattern puzzle from last year?   It's been a long time waiting in the wings for posting.  An innovation on an existing theme, this single twist is ingenious in that a cowl is built as part of the twist pattern.   The final effect being a more subtle twist with a relaxed fit.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  My Knit Block is also available as a PDF download.

Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers.  This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers.  I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.
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