23 Jun Flare and Gather Dress
Posted at 16:10h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles 6 Comments
A very clever bunch of #PatternPuzzlers were able to nail all the detail in this complex design on Saturday. The most baffling part of the pattern shape are the very deep tucks in the left shoulder. This draped style mixes straight and bias grains with tucks and gathering and an invisible zip in the left side seam.
Staring with my fitted dress block for woven fabrics, trace full front and back drafts to plan this asymmetric style.
- To begin, decide the various lengths of the dress by starting with the lowest and highest points on the left side of the dress then plotting the other in-between length for the right side seam.
- Connect the lower left side point to the front left side dart.
- Then position the seam for the left side gathered panel, connecting front left dress to the CB seam. Break this panel into regular sections for later development.
- Draw up the under pleat section of the front left where the gathered panel connects to the lower left point.
- Extend the shoulder into a cap sleeve and draw in the boat neckline, front and back.
- Mark in your placement lines for the CB elastic casing.
- Near the right front side seam mark in a slim panel from the underarm, slanted toward the hipline then extended for extra flare.
- Mark in the dashed lines across the front dress locating the gathering on the right side and the large tucks in the front left shoulder.
There are three main pattern pieces in this dress with the front being the most complex. Cut along all dashed lines to add fullness to gathers and large tucks to the left shoulder. Regulate the amount of extra fabric for drape according to the weight of the fabric you are using.
In the final patterns, the back is on the straight grain and the front is cut on the bias. The large shoulder tucks are folded up toward the neckline. Select a grain line that places the majority of the drape on the bias grain in the shoulder and right side gathers. All patterns are cut Right Side Up (R.S.U.) to maintain the detail in this asymmetric style.
Let us know if you have any questions about this style. Leave a comment or email us direct. If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Flare and Gather Dress – Pattern Making Instructions.