Well Suited

26 Feb

Posted at 13:03h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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Did you ever think there'd be so many designs using Twist Drape?  I was totally captivated with the asymmetric aspect of this design and the layering effects that can be achieved using two different fabrics and my knit block.  Like the majority of previous twists you'll definitely need a two-way stretch knit for this to work well.  The elastane (Lycra/Spandex) in your knit fabric is the best tool for achieving a snug fit with this method of making twist patterns.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

04 Feb

Posted at 13:10h in Grading Patterns, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns by
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Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes.  This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.

22 Jan

Posted at 13:35h in Fashion Design, Fashion Industry, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft by
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While I wait for the local pleating house to finish their summer vacation, I'm moving onto the second phase of the Permanent Pleating Series - Garment Pleating.  In this series, I'll be discussing whole garment pleating as originally inspired by the work of Issey Miyake (Pleats Please).

19 Jan

Posted at 13:43h in Garment Construction, Pattern Making Instructions, Self-draft by
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This is the third post in the Permanent Pleating series where we're looking at the pre-pleating preparation for a Sunray Circle Skirt and Mushroom Pleated rectangle.  Our first post covered the introduction to the series - Prep for Permanent Pleating 101.  And the second post has all the pattern making information for both skirts; Patterns for Pleating Project 101.

09 Jan

Posted at 13:59h in Fashion Design, Fashion Industry, Self-draft by
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I've always had a fascination for what can be achieved with a little heat and some petro-chemical fibres.  Permanent (heat-set) Pleating is the use of heat on polyester/nylon fabrics to set a pleat that will survive the rigours of wash and wear without the need of re-pressing.
'Pleats are categorized as pressed, that is, ironed or otherwise heat-set into a sharp crease, or unpressed, falling in soft rounded folds.'  wikipedia

28 Nov

Posted at 14:06h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns by
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This entire post is inspired by my fascination with circular knits.  I've not had much experience with this particular cloth but have always been hooked by the possibilities.  I found this piece (slight grey marl cotton) at the back of one of the local fabric shops and grabbed a couple of meters to play with.  My first idea was to try the twist, especially with a fabric that's half-way to dressing you without any side seams.

21 Nov

Posted at 13:07h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns by
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The Drape Tube Skirt has turned out to be such a favourite in my wardrobe that I think it'll be the first #PatternPuzzle to be turned into a pdf pattern for the website.  Although my first impressions were of a failed sample, it turns out not to be the case. :)  ADDENDUM MAY 2017:  At last The Drape Tube Skirt available as a PDF sewing pattern here.

05 Nov

Posted at 14:33h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric.  By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are.  It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body.  That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.
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