07 May Vivienne Drape Dress – First Sample
Posted at 12:31h in Creative Pattern Making, Fitting Patterns, Intermediate, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Sewing Instructions 0 Comments
Back in the land of blogging and I’ve made a #FirstSample of the Vivienne Drape Dress. I’ve recently turned this #PatternPuzzle into an afternoon workshop that I hold at the studio. Students spend an afternoon in the studio and leave with this pattern completed in their size of choice. We always start with my Women’s Fitted Dress Block (PDF available) and every student builds a pattern plan for the development of this special design.
Below I’ve marked in the changes to the original pattern plan that will make an even better sample.
- The major alteration to the original plan is to shift the shaped waist feature closer to the centre in the front. The original position was a little too close to the side seam and appeared to disappear around the side of the body. So I’ve shifted it onto the front waist dart to bring it toward the front.
- A the second change to the original plan is to not use the gape darts in the sleeveless armhole. The cap sleeve extension and shaping, along with the alteration in the underarm area of the side seam has tightened the armhole enough not to gape.
When you have the waistline and drape lines in place, follow the same instructions for making the pattern as in the original post and as diagram below.
The fabric I used for the second sample was only 135 cm wide and I needed 2.2m to cut this design. As you can see there is quite a bit of waste that I was able to turn into bias binding for the armhole, back neckline and hem. I’ve also used the border from this fabric to make an interesting feature on the back of the dress.
The photos below show the two samples with the waist alteration that’s described above. I’ve marked in the waist seam on the second sample to counter the effect of the hectic print. Now that the testing is over I plan on cutting this in a crepe weave (totally the best for bias cutting) to see how the drape changes with a different fabric.
Let me know if you have any questions about this pattern or any variations you’d like to make. I’m always happy to help. 🙂