Sewing Pattern Alterations

30 Aug

Posted at 14:28h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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This post is specifically dedicated to working a full bust adjustment (FBA) on my knit block.  This particular pattern alteration is important for anyone with a bra cup size above B & C.  Because we are working with knit, I'd prefer not to include a dart in any of my knit patterns.  If you add a Full Bust Adjustment to a woven pattern you'll usually end up with a side seam dart.  For knit patterns I have a different way of dealing with the extra fabric that results from an FBA and that would usually become a dart.
All details following:

04 Jul

Posted at 16:39h in Off-the-Rails Sewing Patterns, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns by
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If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves.  For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations.

28 Feb

Posted at 13:06h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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As a follow-on from Taking Body Measurements, this tutorial will help everyone understand garment ease, what it's for and how to use it in pattern making.  Garment ease is the minimum amount of fabric we add to our body measurements so that our woven garments are comfortable in wearing.  That is, enough extra fabric to sit comfortably, bend your elbow, reach forward to grip the steering wheel when you drive your car or use the computer, sit down, eat lunch, bend your knees, etc.  When fitting basics blocks for woven fabrics, you'll always include the full ease allowance and when you cut patterns from these blocks you can alter the ease to suit the design and fabric you're cutting.

09 Apr

Posted at 11:36h in Fitting Patterns, Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers.  This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers.  I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.

04 Feb

Posted at 13:10h in Grading Patterns, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns by
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Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes.  This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.

09 Oct

Posted at 14:53h in Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns by
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The Patent Blouse has become a favourite top for me after the first set of samples were very wearable.  It has become such a favourite that I managed to wear out my first red sample very quickly.  Unfortunately rayon is not made to last and very soon the surface of the knit was a little shabby with pilling.  I have promised myself that the next red patent blouse will be made in merino.  July 2019:  This pattern has now been added to the website as a PDF download - The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL

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