04 Feb Grade Rules – Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico
Posted at 13:10h in Grading Patterns, Introductory, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns 0 Comments
Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico. This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes. This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.
The first diagram has all the grading areas of the pattern identified and the location of the grade is marked and explained. Mark these lines on your original pattern draft. The original measurements were for a small size10 or large size 8.
Work out the number of sizes you would like to grade (example – if I’m a size14, I’ll need to add double the grade increment on the diagram because I am grading two sizes from 10 to 14). Multiply the number of sizes to grade by each of the measurements on the diagram below. Cut open your pattern and leave the correct amount of space between the pieces to grade to your size. Then make a copy of the pattern using a ruler to clean up the straight lines and toile (sample) in calico.
It is also possible to use the following diagram to work out your grade. Simply add the total grade for each section of the pattern to the drafting measurements supplied below in the self-draft and you’ll be able to draft to size. For example, the 27cm measurement, that was used to build the original square, will grow by 2cm (¾”) per size. The 85cm measurement will grow by 4.5cm (1 ¾”) per size, plus any extra length grade you may use through the bodice.
For the first-time grader may I suggest you make a copy of the original pattern, then cut through the locations/lines suggested above and open up the pattern for the desired amount. The measurements supplied above and in the original post would suit a large size 8 or small size 10. Please add or subtract increments according to the number of sizes you need to grade. For example, if you would like to grade to a size 14, multiply the grade rules above x 2 to reach the correct size.
For all new patterns, I recommend you sew a woven fabric toile to make sure the grade has not adversely affected the shape of the garment. If you make this pattern for knitted fabric then the original measurements would most like suit a generous size 10 or size 12. So much can vary according to the knit you select. Allow fabric and time for testing and perfecting the fit.
When your Gil Brandao top is fitting well, consider making a circle skirt to finish off this vintage ensemble. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below. Always happy to help. Enjoy 🙂