Vintage Bodice – Full Bust Adjustment

Vintage Bodice – Full Bust Adjustment

To begin, a quick recap of previous posts for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  You can start with the first post, the self-draft instructions for this vintage bodice.  If you think you’d like more detail you can download my detailed worksheet – Vintage Style Pattern Making.  The instructions in the worksheet include information for drafting different sizes, from 6 to 22.  If you’re unable to access the worksheet there is a post where I outline the grade rules to make the original draft in to other sizes – Grade Rules – Gil Brandao Conjunto PraticoTaking the vintage bodice further I have a post with the instructions for adding a skirt to the vintage bodice to make and wrap style dress –Vintage Bodice as Dress – Fist Sample.
Vintage Style Pattern Making

In my experience, just about every home sewer needs to understand several different ways of making a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on a number of different pattern shapes.  Not so long ago I had a request from a fan wanting to know if it was possible to make a FBA for this pattern puzzle, Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  In response I’ve developed the diagrams below for a FBA adjustment on this self-draft vintage bodice.  I’ll take you step-by-step through the process and give you a few alternatives for the finished garment.
Diagram with the cutting lines to begin the FBA for this vintage bodice.
  • Locate your bust point on the pattern by trying on a toile and marking the exact point.
  • Draw in cutting lines from the bust point to the neckline, armhole and waist line.
  • Cut through the lines that connect the neckline to the bust point, through to the waistline.
  • Open up the neckline through to the waist for 1-2cm each depending on how much fabric you need to add for your adjustment.
  • You have increased both the bodice length and width as needed for a fuller bust.
  • Mark in a symmetrical dart, below the bust point, that is as wide as the FBA alteration (1-2cm).
  • The dart arms should finish about 3 cm below the bust point.  These are the sewing lines for the bust dart.
  • Fold the dart closed at the waistline and mark through the outside edge using your tracing wheel.
  • If you find the neckline is still a little loose you can gape dart the neckline and add that extra shaping through to the waist dart.
Like all pattern alterations it needs to be tried and tested in a sample before cutting in your best fabric.  The basic principles described above can be applied to almost any pattern shape to achieve a FBA and the extra length and width needed over the bust.  If you’d like to checkout a couple more posts about FBA’s try these:
Let me know if you have any questions about these alterations in the comments section below.  Always happy to help. 🙂

Take this moment to sign up for my fabulous newsletter!  Every month or so I send an email newsletter with new website content and always, always an enormous discount code for all my sewing patterns, garment blocks and pattern making instructions. 

This discount code is for subscribers only.  Don't miss out!

Anita McAdam
No Comments

Post A Comment

error: This content is protected !!