17 Nov Curved Seam Dress
Once again our weekly #PatternPuzzle is focused on doing wicked things with darts! The design is a classic in many ways and uses a very flattering diagonal seam. The drape is sent in opposite directions to encourage the eye to take in the whole garment.
The pattern plan starts with my fitted dress block:
- Trace a full front dress block for the asymmetric design, and a half back dress block.
- Mark in the boat neckline, cap sleeve and side seam alteration for a sleeveless style.
- Taper the side seam on the dress from hip to 3-4cm at the hem.
- Draw in the ‘S’ shaped curve seam from the left side armhole to the right side high hip.
- Draw in the radiating lines for the drape tucks from left bust to right shoulder and right high hip.to lower left hem.
- Shape the centre back seam at waist by 1-1.5cm.
- Add a walking vent to the centre back seam.
Starting with the bodice, trace each of the sections as defined by the drape lines. Fold out all of the darts in each of these sections. Hold the outside edges of the dress together as you open each drape line for an equal amount of fabric. Fold the tucks in your pattern paper to trace the outside line and finish to outside edge of the tucks.
In the pattern pieces below I have the front dress cut on the bias grain and the back dress cut on the straight grain. It is possible that the straight grain of the back may stabilise the front dress. Much will depend on your fabric choice. It is also very acceptable to cut the whole dress on the bias.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments section below. Very happy to help out if you decide to cut any of our #PatternPuzzles. If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Curved Seam Dress – Pattern Making Instructions.
Enjoy 🙂
Marina Dias
Posted at 23:14h, 01 JulyAre the waist darts of the front dress not to be closed? I’d like to try this pattern.
Studio Faro
Posted at 11:31h, 02 JulyHi Marina,
If you have a close look at the Pattern Development you’ll see I’ve closed the waist darts as much as I can considering the shape of the pattern piece. I would then fit more shape to the waist area in my first toile fitting. Also important with these drape styles is that there should be little or no garment ease in you dress block before you start making your pattern.
Don’t hesitate to come back and ask more questions as you go along. If you’d like to show photos of your progress you can do that in my private Facebook Group: STUDIO FARO MAKERS https://www.facebook.com/groups/studiofaromakers