14 Jul Drape Collar Extension
Posted at 15:26h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles 0 Comments
Saturday was fun with loads of great answers in our #PatternPuzzle. The final piece of the puzzle was the ‘long pointy thing’ that had nearly everyone stumped. The grown-on band collar is an extension of the front drape in this bias cut top.
Using my fitted block for woven fabric, the pattern plan below has all the style lines needed for this complex top.
- Working with a ‘V’ neckline, plan the asymmetric drape, connecting the hemline to the neckline.
- Mark in the connecting lines to the bust point and darts (bust line, waist and near hemline).
- This is where you will open up the pattern to eliminate darts and introduce extra fabric for drape.
- For the cap sleeve, keep it short and shaped with the gape darts to tighten up the sleeve opening.
- Cut along the connecting lines for the front right and left and tape all the darts closed.
- Open up along the cut lines to include more fabric for the ruching in the drape.
- Connect the right and left front sections to the asymmetric drape at the hemline.
- Extend the drape to include the back and right side collar.
- Join the folded collar back to the front sections of the pattern.
- The end of the collar, where it connects with the CF ‘V’ neck can be tapered (as my example) or square cut.
For the final front pattern mark in the grainline to place the bias on the ruching and drape.
The back has a shaped CB seam and a small adjustment to the neckline to match the front. If you cut the back on the bias you may not need a zipper depending on fabric and fit. Shape the cap sleeve with gape darts to tighten the sleeve opening.
Let me know what you think, I love to hear from all our fans. If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Drape Collar Extension – Pattern Making Instructions.