12 Aug Soft Pleat Jacket
I’ve used one of my favourite jacket blocks to develop the pattern for this design – loose fit kimono jacket block for woven’s. The unusual aspect of this design is that the front right side of this jacket with extra length added to the wrap to make the soft drape pleat between each button.
The pattern plan below is based on a loose kimono jacket fit. I have added a built-up neckline, side body panels (front & back) and cuffs and pockets with a slightly wider profile. The front right side of the jacket is opened up to make the waterfall style drape buttoning. The extra fabric can be pressed into pleats or you could get inside the facing and gently tack those soft folds together. When the jacket is left open the right side will behave very differently to the left and give a strong asymmetric look to the garment.
The pattern pieces are set out below with different right and left fronts, the side front and side back panels and the centre back panel. Sleeve, cuff, and pocket are featured at the top.
Because the fronts are so different you will see below that the same applies to the facings. Probably the one most important thing here is the cutting instructions for each of these four pieces. With the way I have laid out the pattern pieces here, all are placed right side up for better understanding. Cutting instructions for each piece would be Cut 1 Only R.S.U. (Right Side Up). And for the facings, you would add fusible interlining. Back Facing would be Cut 1 Pair.
In this post, I have added the briefest of pattern making detail. If you would like more information regarding this style, leave a comment and I will provide more detail.