30 Dec Balenciaga Evening Overblouse
Posted at 16:19h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Vintage Patterns 1 Comment
From the first moment I clapped my eyes on this little beauty, I’ve been deeply in love. Never far from my mind, I had made several attempts to understand this self-drafted style. Finally, I have something to start with.
My first ideas were based on a flat, geometric sketch as featured in the image below. I could see how a slightly smaller hem circumference would catch on the high hip and create those beautiful drapes.
I then attempted to draw an accurate trade sketch of the design to try and place the design features in the right place to maintain proportion. In particular, the location of the front yoke seam is important as it is the same level as the armholes. Getting this right will be important in keeping the style both attractive and comfortable.
In the end, I decided to transplant the geometric shape onto my Dart-less Kimono Block for wovens. What works here for me is I can see how the shape sits in relation to the armhole, yokeline, and overarm line. I have planned the front pattern parts in red and the back in green. Please note that I have made the hem circumference of the top smaller so it will catch on the high hip.
When tracing off all the pattern shapes I wanted to keep as many pieces as possible together to minimise seams/sewing and hopefully produce another of those one-piece patterns. Below is a diagram of half the pattern with the conventional parts of the original block pattern sketched in to give everyone a sense of how this pattern relates to the body.
The final full pattern shape is featured below with cutting instructions and all pattern markings. The straight grain is parallel with the centre back in this style. For fabric selection, I would like to suggest a crepe weave of almost any fibre origin (silk crepe-de-chine, polyester crepe, light wool crepe). The flexibility in the crepe weave will work well with the demands of this design. Any one-way stretch jersey will also make up well.
For many of our longer serving fans, you may recognise some features in this puzzle as similar to the Retro Wrap and Retro Shrug from earlier posts. If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Balenciaga Evening Overblouse – Pattern Making Instructions
As this is the last post for 2013 I would like to take this opportunity to wish everyone a fabulous New Year. Enjoy. 🙂
August 2018: Finally a sample made with polyester chiffon.