Cowl Tee with Drape

I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway, I didn’t notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.

1. A built up neckline with cutting lines to include drape.
2. A line to separate the shoulder section for the raglan sleeve.
3. A princess panel seam joining the armhole to the bust point, through to the hemline.
4. Dart shaping on this panel line to create a high waist fit.
5. On the right side of the garment we will use the panel seam line to create the drape.
6. On the left side of the garment we will use the panel line to create a panel dart with pleat.
7. A straight side seam from the underarm point to he hemline to join to back bodice (no side seam).

1. A built up neckline as front.
2. Shoulder section for raglan as front.
3. CB seam shaping at waist.
4. Straight side seam to join to front bodice (no side seam).

1. Add the front and back shoulder sections to the sleeve head.
2. Shoulder shaping has dart end finish.

Drape development happens in two stages:

1. To begin trace-off separate CF panel and side front panel.
2. Drag the lower panel lines up as if adding massive flare.
3. Join the two panels at this point to form one pattern.
4. Optional:  Mark cutting lines in this extra fabric to add some flare into the drape area.

1. Open up the front built-up neckline to add a small amount of cowl.
2. Re-draw the CF line as a straight line.
3. Optional:  Cut and open up the new drape feature to add extra flare on the right side of the bodice only.

1. Open up the panel seam, keeping the hemline together, to create enough space to sew the panel line into a decent pleat (5cm).
2. Open up the built up neckline as for front right above.

1. Draw a clean curve from the shoulder line to the underarm point on front and back bodice, 1 cm from mid-arm point and 1cm from underarm point.
2. Draw a line straight from the underarm point to the hemline.
3. Tighten the front armhole by creating 1-1.5cm gape darting on the princess panel line.