10 Mar Drape Twist Jersey
Posted at 15:48h in Creative Pattern Making, Intermediate, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Using My Blocks 0 Comments
Gathers, drape, and twists in jersey seem to be the favourites for most of our fans. This weeks challenge is no different, with this drape style that could be made as top or dress.
It is hard to imagine that the weird shape below would make the style sketched above. Once again we have produced a one-piece pattern, eliminating the side seams.
However, I think the practical/industry approach would be to make the pattern in three pieces, splitting it along the seam lines in the existing pattern. As you can see from the image above the sports fashion cross-over is still a favourite. It is one of those tops that would fit into any environment as long as you got the fabric right.
The pattern plan is based on a close-fit knit block suitable for two-way stretch fabric. The Drape and Twist feature on the front of the style have a dominant piece of drape diagonally across the front with gathered drape coming out from under the drape and going in the opposite direction. The difficult thing to see with this pattern plan is that I intend putting a seam down the middle of the back of the main drape diagonal to hide the seams that hold the gather. The neckline and raglan sleeve have fold-back facings that form a square, boat neckline. On both sides of the back, the drape is continued over the side seam into the back.
When all the drape shapes have been cut and opened out they need to provide enough gather for the drape in both directions. Please note the extra fabric allowed to sew the diagonal seam under the main drape to hold the gathers in place and hide the seam. You may notice there are subtle changes to the pattern from the original #PatternPuzzle post. I have increased the amount of gather on the left side of the pattern and widened the neckline to a boat-like shape. Note that when you are joining front and back sections when adding drape you many need to manipulate them a little to keep them reasonably straight to not distort the pattern shape.
The final patterns below indicate where the fabric is gathered to create drape and get the pattern to fit together. If you have any questions please do not hesitate to ask in the comments section below.
Petit Main Sauvage – similar but different.