12 Jan Gil Brandao Wrap Blouse
Posted at 17:16h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft, Vintage Patterns 0 Comments
I finally had a chance to use some of the wonderful work in the Gil Brandao book. In particular, this pattern hooked me from the beginning as it doesn’t seem to make any sense. To start with, the thing that looks like a dart is really an armhole? And that thing that looks like a sleeve is in fact, a waist tie. As you can imagine I was looking forward to an interesting fitting.
I decided to draft out a quarter scale model and was able to get enough information from the diagram and some numbers in the text (all in portuguese). If you go to the link above and download the book you will find this little beauty on page 16 & 17.
The numbers I have used below would suit an Australian Size 12. The measurements you need to make sense of this draft are your back length, measured nape to waist, your waist to hip level and across back. You can use these measurements to adjust and confirm the blouse will fit you. I extended the length of the armhole to be a bit more realistic (was 19cm and I made it 23cm). And added quite a lot to the back length to make it 42cm (16 1/2″)
In the fitting, the only issue that required any attention was the gaping at the front armhole (see photos above). This is quite easily turned into a dart. When you are fitting the toile, pin in the darting required for your fit and transfer that information back to the pattern.
If you are keen to get out a pencil and a large piece of paper the image above is to scale and the grid is 5cm/2″. Let me know if you have any questions. Always happy to help.
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