17 Feb Homage to Charles James
- Lift and extend the shoulder line for the cap sleeve – add rounded shape.
- Remove 1cm at the underarm for a sleeveless style.
- Mark in the new necklines (front & back) and the gape darting required.
- Mark in the dotted lines to show where the gathers will be distributed from the darting.
- Next, mark in your shaped waistlines and taper the side seams of the underskirt to the hemline.
- If a walking split is required in the pencil skirt I suggest placing it in the left side seam as that would be hidden from view by the longer part of the circle skirt.
For the bodice of the dress, all the darts (shoulder, bust, and waist) are folded out where possible and the fullness transferred into the shoulder line for the gathers. The front neckline has a collar-like extension for the turn-back featured in the sketch.