05 Aug Lady in Waiting
So here is the lovely coincidence. After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development. There is even some video footage on Youtube showing everyone the design development process – Fashion Design Development – WhiteonWhite Trend 2014
In keeping with the original design theme I would make this all in white, but create some interest by using three different fabric textures. From the top down I would use a chiffon/georgette for the sleeves and yoke, stretch woven for the bodice and a soft sheen woven, probably bias cut (not too transparent). You could choose to all silks or all polyesters depending on your price point and laundering preferences.
Below is the pattern plan worked out on a dart-less kimono block. As usual I’ve developed the plan with front and back on top of each other (old habit with this block). Hoping this time the colour coding is a little easier to read, and not so confusing. it’s worth noting that I have added a waist dart to this unfitted block to help with the empire shaping in the bodice. The two measurements you need to locate the bust point and then the waist dart are:
1. front length to bust point
2. bust separation.
You can use these measurements to locate the bust point and build a waist dart that helps develop the empire shape and profile.
The delightfully confusing pattern piece I used in the Pattern Puzzle is below. This piece is the sleeve, all-in-one with the upper bodice, front and back. The extra fabric in the neckline will be gathered up with a drawstring (see the sketch above). I would probably cut this part of the garment in a semi-transparent chiffon or georgette. Cutting it on the bias will help the gather and the sleeve to drape well.
While developing the pattern plan I decided that the bodice panels would be great in a stretch woven making the firmer fit more comfortable. Also may eliminate the need for a zip opening. The front and back skirt panels have been flared toward the hem for fullness, without any fullness under the bust. I would most likely cut the skirts on the bias as long as the fabric is stable enough.
If anyone would like to discuss the seam allowances or construction for this style or any of the other Pattern Puzzle please don’t hesitate to email me for more detail.
If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Lady in Waiting – Pattern Making Instructions.