Random Tucks and Pleats

Random Tucks and Pleats

The Saturday #PatternPuzzle was the usual flurry of answers and great ideas from all our fans.   This weeks’ bias cut dress with asymmetric placement of large tucks is fast becoming a favourite and already the pattern has been made for the first toile.

This design would be cut in a woven fabric, with a reasonably close fit to keep the tucks in place on the body.
Starting with my Fitted Dress block, trace out to the desired length then:
  1. Add 1 cm to the shoulder length and adjust the underarm seam for a sleeveless style.
  2. Draw in the boat neckline, front and back.
  3. Add 2.5cm (1″) flare to the hemline at each side seam, front and back.
  4. Mark in the reduction of the sleeveless armhole with gape darts, front and back.
  5. Mark in the position and direction of the body tucks, matching them through at the side seams from the front to the back.
  6. Under the bottom right tuck on the front dress, mark in the seam and position of the left side pleats.
  7. Shape the CB seam in the waist area.
Cut open the pattern along the tuck lines to add extra fabric for the tucks and pleats.  Fold out all the dart allowance where possible and regulate the amount of fabric in each of the pleats.
For the final pattern add a grain line that keeps the tucks close to the bias grain for best drape.  The zip will be in the CB seam.
As out first calico toile comes together we will keep you all posted.  Don’t hesitate to ask your questions in the comment section below.  If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here:  Random Tucks and Pleats – Pattern Making Instructions.
Enjoy 🙂

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Anita McAdam
  • Pilar
    Posted at 00:25h, 01 June Reply

    What type of fabric do you recommend for this pattern?

    • Studio Faro
      Posted at 09:49h, 01 June Reply

      Hi Pilar, thanks for dropping by. I recommend a close fine weave that is stable. Probably light to medium weight.

      I also recommend that your dress block is a very close fit for this design to work well. I would reduce the garment ease by at least half to make sure the large tucks sit well when you are wearing the dress.

      Let me know if you have any questions. I’m always happy to help. Anita 🙂

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