04 Aug Tuck and Panel Dress
Posted at 14:55h in Creative Pattern Making, Intermediate, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles 0 Comments
Our fans made quick work of the #PatternPuzzle on Saturday morning. In the end, they realised that most of the design detail was on the back of this garment with the front remaining quite clean.
Using my fitted dress block or similar, trace out half front and half back block with side seams facing.
- Lift the neck point up and away from the neck and extend the shoulder line into a cap sleeve.
- Shift the front waist dart 2.5cm (1″) toward the side seam and draw in the princess panel line, armhole to hem.
- Mark the position of the large tucks on the CB line, marking them evenly, spaced above and below the waistline.
- These tuck positions then have radiating lines towards the side seam to indicate the direction of the drape.
- At the sideseam continue these lines across the side front panel to meet the princess line.
- Add extra flare to the CB line and panel seam of the back pattern piece.
- Lift the Centre Front Panel pattern piece, placing the bust dart shaping in the panel seam.
- Cut along all radiating lines in back and side front panel.
- Fold out all darts and side seam shaping before opening up on the CB seam for the extra fabric needed to make the tucks a decent size.
- I would want a minimum of 6-8 cm (2 ⅜ – 3 ¼”) in each tuck.
- In this case the tucks are facing down the CB seam. You can choose to have your tucks facing down or up on the CB seam. It will not alter the fit of the dress, only the appearance.
- Remember to add the extra flare to both sides of the large pattern piece near the hem.
- The final pattern has the Centre Front Panel cut on the straight grain and the Back and Side Back pattern piece cut on the bias.
- On the back pattern, the grainline has been placed to coincide with the direction of the drape in the design. By that I mean the bias grain is working in the same direction as the drape.
If you’d like to buy a copy of these pattern making notes for your own personal use at home you’ll find them here: Tuck and Panel Dress – Pattern Making Instructions.
We love to hear from you. 🙂