26 Aug Tucked Tee
Posted at 13:02h in Creative Pattern Making, Introductory, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Using My Blocks 0 Comments
The inspiration behind Saturday’s Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months. I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year. In the world of drape, it’s definitely the new kid on the block. Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application. I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.
I recommend a light-weight single jersey with a silky handle. Many of the rayon family would do fine – modal, viscose, tencel, etc. No elastane required in this particular fit.
Keep in mind that this style has not been tested and that these instructions are only the beginning of the process. I would expect to make at least one toile to get this style right and would happily make two to get the best fit. Simple shapes are often the hardest to cut well.
The first step would be to get your knit block and loosen it up a little in the fit.
The Pattern Plan:
- Open up the neck (1-1.5cm), extend the shoulder line (2cm) and drop the underarm point (3cm down and 2cm wider) to loosen the fit on your knit block.
- The hip measurement should be at least 6cm greater than your body measurement to maintain the loose, drape fit.
- Drop the sleeve head and the top arm line and make the sleeve wider to get the drape effect.
The back tunic and the sleeve of the pattern are fairly straight forward to copy and add seam allowances. You will also need a bind for the neckline to finish, 1cm wide. The front tunic pattern is where all the interesting work happens.
The front has been opened up to include a huge drape/fold of the fabric. I think it is important to include the armhole in this drape as the armhole seam will secure the weight of the extra fabric. At this early stage, I only have one additional note – in my experience, the diagonal fold in the drape will grow in length on the bias. I recommend you reduce the length of the fold by 5-6cm.
You can make this drape tee design using my Women’s Knit Block, available as a PDF download in Sizes 6-22.