23 Sep Two Twist Jersey
Posted at 13:40h in Creative Pattern Making, Intermediate, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Using My Blocks 0 Comments
With this design I’m showcasing jersey twists, using two-way stretch (four-way in the US) knit fabric. The front of the dress features two single twists, with a circular hem panel and an insert fishtail godet in the centre back seam. If you’d like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you’ll get the same training you’d get if you came to the workshop in my studio. As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double (self-lined), or you use a double knit fabric that is good both sides. Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.
The pattern plan below is based on a jersey block for two-way stretch fit. A lot like a body-hugging tee. The back and the front are very similar with major differences in the neckline, shoulder line, and armhole. The solid red lines in the planning are seams or outside edges. The dotted lines are for cutting, to open up the dress shape and add extra fabric.
These twists rely on a single turn (of the side body panel and front left shoulder) of the pattern piece to bring the matching seams together. These are sewn to hold the drape in place. Extra fabric is added into the pattern to create the drape that comes out of the twist. And it is also important to add some extra width that will get taken up by the twist.
I have placed the grain line in this pattern piece to maximise the bias drape in the direction of the twists.
The back pattern piece is reasonably straight forward with a cap sleeve and some CB seam shaping at the waist and just under the seat.
The lower skirt panel is circular to get the best out of flare without gathers or pleats. With a pattern piece this shape the grain line can be almost anywhere. It only becomes important if you have a directional print or pattern where you can plan how the direction works with the circle.
I hope you all enjoy these pattern instructions for this new style. Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions. My notes are brief so I don’t mind at all. 🙂
Please remember these are new ideas and they have not yet been tried and tested. Always make the first toile in similar (but much cheaper) fabric to the final sample.