12 May Cowl Drape Dress
Then cut it in calico.
And sewed it all together.
And fitted it on the stand and on myself. My most important alterations are:
- To reduce the amount of cowl in the front neck.
- To redirect the skirt drape toward the hip area and not the hem.
- To square off the waterfall detail and move it further down the dress to enable a better fit around the seat and thighs.
- To pinch in and alter the back collar to sit better.
- To reshape the cap sleeve to fit the shoulder better.
Using my fitted dress block for woven fabric:
- Extend the shoulder line for a cap sleeve of 8cm, then curve to fit the shoulder. The drop is approx. 4cm.
- Draw in the new neckline from a mid-shoulder point, to a high ‘V’ neckline.
- Add a 3cm rectangle as the basis for a built-up neckline.
- Curve the right-side panel seams out of the new cap sleeve armhole, around the bust and toward the left side low waist.
- For the left side panel seam curve from the same point in the armhole toward the left side low waist position.
- Transfer the left waist dart onto the new panel line.
- Extend the left side panel line through to the hem.
- Place your waterfall feature on this line starting near the top of the thigh.
- Mark in the dashed lines for the skirt drape to be included.
- Taper the side seams of the skirt.
- Build similar cap sleeve, panel lines and built-up neckline for the back dress.
- Taper the back dress below the back waist dart to allow for a panel/dart in the back dress.
- Shape the back waist by min. 1cm through to the hip and across back levels.
Make your separate pattern pieces:
- For the front upper bodice transfer all the bust darting into a front neck cowl with a deep turnback facing.
- Cut open the skirt section of the dress and add 8cm for each tuck. Lift the line for the waterfall drape to a 90 degree angle and curve back to the hem.
- Copy the left side panel shape and add the same waterfall drape to the panel seam.
- Taper the back dress by folding out 4-5cm under the back waist dart. This will open up the panel toward the armhole and allow for the addition of seam allowances and cutting.
- Add a deep facing to the back built-up neckline.
Let me know if you have any questions about these pattern instructions. Leave a comment below or email me direct. Enjoy 🙂