28 Apr Drape Tube Skirt – Sewing Instructions
Posted at 14:17h in Introductory, Sewing Instructions, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns 0 Comments
The beauty of this stretch, ponti skirt is the simplicity of its make. The Drape Tube Skirt pattern has only two pieces: one main pattern piece for the front and back skirt, and one for the narrow waistband. And for the sewing, there are the drape tucks, two seams, a waistband and a hem to worry about. Be sure to clearly mark the width of the drape tucks and be aware they need to be sewn about 2.5cm (1″) into the skirt to make sure they behave well when you wear your skirt.
Once you have cut out your pattern pieces, pin all 12 tucks in place before sewing, and make sure the pins indicate the direction of your sewing. Your stitching should follow the slight slant of the tuck lines as indicated on the pattern.
I’ve used a 2 x 1 zig zag to stitch my tucks on place. This stitch type will give me both strength and stretch in the wearing of this skirt. Then press the tuck on the inside of the skirt upwards, so the tuck has a fold down look on the right side of the skirt.
To make the sewing of the seams easier you should then stitch these tucks down, in the seam allowance space, to make sure they are all facing in the right direction when I sew the centre front and centre back seams. I’ve used a more open zig zag stitch for this job, most likely 2 wide x 3.5 long.
Keeping in mind that I’ll be using a four-thread mock safety stitch for the centre front and centre back seams, I’ve pinned the raw edges together for the full seam length. And then I’ve pinned the tuck bulk in place so it can’t be caught up on the machine when stitching.
Stitch both the centre front and centre back seams using a four-thread mock safety stitch. Keep in mind there is a bit of bulk as you sew across the tucks, so go gently so you machine is not stressed.
To prepare the narrow waistband it’s probably a good idea to attach your elastic to the band before it is attached to the skirt. My elastic is the same length as the waistband. For this skirt I much prefer to use swimwear elastic in the waistband. It’s both strong and resilient for this pull-on design. I’ve used a 2 x 3.5 zig zag stitch to attach my elastic to the waistband. Then join the waistband together to make it a full circle, ready to add to the waistband of the skirt.
To attach the waistband to the top of the skirt I’ve used the four-thread mock safety stitch for both strength and stretch. If you’re using a domestic machine for this job you could use a zig-zag stitch or a specialist stretch stitch according to your machine.
Roll the waistband over and pin it in place along the whole of the waistline. I’ve then used a 2 x 2 zig zag to stitch the waistband in place, stitching in the ditch of the waistband seam.
For the hemline, press up a single turn of 2cm for the hem allowance and stitch it in place using a stretch stitch. I’ve used a wave-like stretch stitch on my domestic. It’s both attractive and stretches without breaking. You can also use the cover-stitch from your overlocker if you have that available.
Your skirt is now complete and ready to wear. If you don’t have access to a four-thread mock safety stitch machine for the seams and the waistline, you can use a stretch stitch like a zig zag or specialist stretch stitch on your sewing machine.