21 Nov First Sample – Drape Tube Skirt
Posted at 13:07h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns 0 Comments
The Drape Tube Skirt has turned out to be such a favourite in my wardrobe that I think it’ll be the first #PatternPuzzle to be turned into a pdf pattern for the website. Although my first impressions were of a failed sample, it turns out not to be the case. 🙂 ADDENDUM MAY 2017: At last The Drape Tube Skirt available as a PDF sewing pattern here.
Using my skirt block and following these pattern making instructions, with a slight variation to the design around the hips, I produced the #FirstSample pictured above. The tucked drape around the hips worked well with a small alteration to the back: I did lift the lowest tuck off the hip line to about 5-6cm above. Turns out not to be so attractive when placed directly on the hip line (i.e. the widest part of the body).
The drape added to the CB seam, near the hemline was originally 20cm. As you can see this produces an understated drape in the back of the skirt. At first I was disappointed in the result until Mioara Cretu pointed out that the understated drape had a certain elegance and wearability. It turns out Mioara was totally accurate in her understanding of the skirt and the video footage supports her idea.
In response to the lack of drape in the back of the skirt (and by comparison to the original sketch) I slashed the pattern open and added another 30cm of drape (brown paper sections). The turquoise sample has now got a total of 50cm drape in the lower section of the CB seam. And that’s a lot of fabric as you can see from the photos below.
To help with the decision making I’ve made a little video footage that shows how the skirt behaves when wearing and walking. Let me know what you think and which of the styles is your favourite.
In conclusion the ideal maximum drape added would be 40cm but only for the lightest of two way stretch knit. If your ponti is a little heavier (polyester varieties) then 30cm of drape is recommended. For an undemanding everyday skirt that always looks and feels good, the 20cm of drape is more than enough. Pick your fabric and pick your occasion before deciding how much drape to use.
For my final sample I’ve cut a burnt orange viscose ponti (photo below) with 30cm of drape to test the above conclusions. I’m developing this pattern (with you all in mind) and have marked the drape so it can be included or excluded according to fabric and occasion. I’ve also marked in length alteration lines below the hipline to adjust the 62cm front length to 54cm for those who prefer something closer to the knee level. This pattern will go directly to my grader in the new year to be digitised, graded and prepared for online sales. I’m so excited to get that little bit closer to getting some of my ideas out there. Stay tuned for more…
If you are thinking about making this pattern for yourself try my skirt block and please don’t hesitate to ask questions or leave a comment below. 🙂
Now available as a PDF sewing pattern online.
If you have any questions about this pattern or the sewing process, don’t hesitate to use the comments section below. 🙂 If you’d like to share your photos of this blouse you can join my Facebook group, or Instagram. To be sure I see the posts please use my handle @studiofaro or the hashtag #DrapeTubeSkirt.