02 Mar Gape Darts for Necklines and Armholes
The pattern plan below is an example of a sleeveless style with a ‘V’ neck. Gape darts are needed in this style in the neckline (1cm/3/8″) and the armhole (1cm/3/8″) to achieve a clean, close fit. Width reduction in the underarm (-1cm /3/8″), along the side seam will remove the extra fabric required when including a sleeve. These three reductions in the armhole, neckline and side seam can be applied to nearly all similar styles. The measurements suggested in this paragraph are approximate only but represent a good start in developing these style.
The pattern plan below is a good example of dealing with any long diagonal line in the bodice. In this case the asymmetric wrap in this panelled bodice has a neckline gape dart near the bust dart and further reduction of the line on the left side waist dart. The armhole gape dart is built into the panel seam. And the side seam at the underarm has the same treatment as above.
A text book reference for gape darts from Helen Joseph Armstrong. This is a great pattern making book for anyone learning to cut patterns. Thanks to everyone for pointing the way to yet more resources for making better patterns.