06 Oct The Erté Jacket
Rediscovering this book recently, I was able to look at these great designs with a more experienced eye. I can see where my early exposure to Erté has influenced my design work. And I must say at the outset, that although these designs fascinate me endlessly as a pattern maker, I find them far too theatrical to be applied directly to everyday wear. So I hope to rework these ideas and see if there is anyway this design might fit in a modern fashion wardrobe.
- Add a 2cm button stand to the Centre Front (CF) line.
- Mark in the front length of your jacket and curve the hem line up toward the side seam.
- Extend beyond the side seam for the wrap allowance for the buttoning at the side seam.
- The slit between the body and the sleeve starts in the underarm in the same location as the gusset.
- The sleeve shape follows a similar line to the hem of the jacket, maybe a little shorter as indicated in the sketch.
- The wrap around and buttoning at the wrist is achieved by placing the front and back shoulder line together and drawing a clean line from front to back. The back sleeve will need to be longer to provide the wrap. All of this is slightly informed guesswork with the knowledge that I will get a chance to refine this feature in the first toile.
- The back has very similar styling to the front with the exception of the shaping on the CB seam.