13 Oct The Kimono Wrap Dress
Posted at 11:53h in Creative Pattern Making, Intermediate, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Using My Blocks, Vintage Patterns 0 Comments
This kimono styled dress was quite a challenge in the pattern making department. Firstly you have to decide if the wrap over is an authentic two-layer wrap or if you are going to seam the pieces together. I’ve gone for the two layer option and included a zip in the CB seam as the only place where the two bodice layers join.
Starting with a dartless Kimono block (for woven fabric) you need to trace out full front and back patterns to plan this asymmetric style. The right side, front and back, are like a support bodice for the drape in the left side, front and back. For the right side of the bodice, a princess line panel is worked off the gusset line to get a reasonable fit and include the waist dart shape. On the left side of the bodice, the dart shaping is worked into the drape. Mark in the diagonal cut lines across the left bodice, front and back, to transfer the dart shape and add extra drape to the garment.
The skirt of this dress has waist darts, front and back, tapered side seams and a CB pleated walking vent.
Note the small amount of extra fabric included in the left side pattern pieces for the drape. Also, note that the left side patterns open in the gusset area to allow for easy movement. When joining the left side pattern pieces together please note the gap at the top of the side seam caused by the dart shape. I have compensated for that gap with shaping at the top of the Centre Back seam.
The Colour-Coded Pattern pieces set out below show the separate bodice patterns for the right and left sides of the garment, distinguishing the front from the back. In this example, I have not separated the neckband on the right side bodice pieces. In the final garment, a contrast band would add potential interest.
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