Drape Patterns Tag

You don't need to be a genius to see I am still obsessed with twist patterns.  They certainly suit the whole idea behind my #PatternPuzzles.  This type of jersey twist is not so unusual in the fashion ranges at the moment.  The small and unusual detail of placing the twist off-centre is very appealing, if not a little clever.  If you fancy making this tee shirt, but you're not so keen on pattern making, then you'll find the PDF Sewing Pattern Here.

I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway, I didn't notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.

Mioara Cretu, a textile teacher from Iassy, Romania submitted the fabulous pattern shape you see below.  Such a challenging shape had our #PatternPuzzlers staying back after school to solve the problem.  With collective zeal Julie Eilber, Alison Calderwood and Karen Vogelsang finally solved the puzzle early Wednesday morning.  Such stamina!
Mioara has a particular interest in clothing made a jersey and admires the Donna Karan idea of the 'one pattern dress' achieved by removing the side seams with clever pattern making.

There are so many different kinds of twists in pattern making and I have dealt with a few in this blog.  These single twist styles have one major drawback and that is the fabric you use needs to look as good from the right and the wrong side.  I think this really limits your choices.  If you could get your hands on an extremely light weight double knit that would be fantastic.  You also have to choose your edge finishes (hems) to look good from the front and the back, as both sides are viewed.

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape, it's definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

So here is the lovely coincidence.  After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development. There is even some video footage on Youtube showing everyone the design development process - Fashion Design Development - WhiteonWhite Trend 2014

In this second stage, the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.  Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toiles in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.
Alterations to the first sample included reducing the upper body length to refine the drape and tightening the hip fit so the twist will stay in place.
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