Pattern Fitting Tutorials

25 Aug

Posted at 06:07h in Fitting Patterns, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Sewing, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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So often the greatest disappointments I hear about making your own clothes are about commercial sewing patterns not fitting how the maker imagined.  What's not always clear is the complexity of size charts and the idea that all garments and sewing patterns use the same sizing system.  Not so unfortunately.  My own approach is to always ignore the sizing system offered on the back of sewing patterns (size 14 or S M L) and to focus solely on body measurements and desired garment measurements and how the sewing pattern compares.  What follows is a description of the first steps, I use personally and teach to my students, to make sure they have the closest sewing pattern size before cutting a fitting toile.
 

03 Nov

Posted at 10:00h in Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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Imagine joining me in one of my many pattern making workshops and enjoying the new techniques and skills that'll up your creative game.  My Sewing and Learning Packages include a sewing pattern or block and a related set of detailed tutorials that are the very resources I use in my pattern making workshops.  So something a little different: The Sleeveless Shift Dress - A Dress with a Lesson.

12 Oct

Posted at 16:19h in Fitting Patterns, Grading Patterns, Pattern Fitting Tutorials by
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Although it may appear complicated, grading sewing patterns is based on a few simple rules with definite numbers added to very specific parts of the pattern for each size up and down the size chart.  These rules are used in repeat for all garments within a category (mens, women's or children).  The image below is of a black fitted dress block graded from Size 8 to Size 10 by cutting through the crucial grade points and adding the extra required to go up one size in the pattern.  The white lines are these crucial grade points where the extra is added.  It is the example I use in my pattern making classes to assist in the understanding of where patterns grow between sizes.

18 Jan

Posted at 10:45h in Fitting Patterns, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Pattern Puzzles, Self-draft, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Vintage Patterns by
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To begin, a quick recap of previous posts for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  You can start with the first post, the self-draft instructions for this vintage bodice.  If you think you'd like more detail you can download my detailed worksheet - Vintage Style Pattern Making.  The instructions in the worksheet include information for drafting different sizes, from 6 to 22.  If you're unable to access the worksheet there is a post where I outline the grade rules to make the original draft in to other sizes - Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  Taking the vintage bodice further I have a post with the instructions for adding a skirt to the vintage bodice to make and wrap style dress -Vintage Bodice as Dress - Fist Sample.
Vintage Style Pattern Making

30 Aug

Posted at 14:28h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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This post is specifically dedicated to working a full bust adjustment (FBA) on my knit block.  This particular pattern alteration is important for anyone with a bra cup size above B & C.  Because we are working with knit, I'd prefer not to include a dart in any of my knit patterns.  If you add a Full Bust Adjustment to a woven pattern you'll usually end up with a side seam dart.  For knit patterns I have a different way of dealing with the extra fabric that results from an FBA and that would usually become a dart.
All details following:

12 Jul

Posted at 12:12h in Fitting Patterns, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Pattern Puzzles, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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Now that the first sample has been made and fitted I'm able to bring you all the pattern alterations I have made to get this new design to work.  I'm still fascinated with this design and hope the final pattern is something worthy of all this sampling effort.  If you'd like to see the original pattern puzzle post you'll find it here:  Flare & Gather Dress

12 Jul

Posted at 15:41h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Womens Trouser Block by
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So often I'm asked how I make my fitting toile's for Trouser Blocks, so I'd thought I'd put together a short post with some detail.  Many of the points are small but essential for a good #FirstFitting. You can access a download of my Trouser Block here.  I've also uploaded a worksheet that covers the detail for the first stage of fitting the trouser block.  The PDF worksheet includes detail instructions and technical diagrams to take you through every step of the process.

28 Feb

Posted at 13:06h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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As a follow-on from Taking Body Measurements, this tutorial will help everyone understand garment ease, what it's for and how to use it in pattern making.  Garment ease is the minimum amount of fabric we add to our body measurements so that our woven garments are comfortable in wearing.  That is, enough extra fabric to sit comfortably, bend your elbow, reach forward to grip the steering wheel when you drive your car or use the computer, sit down, eat lunch, bend your knees, etc.  When fitting basics blocks for woven fabrics, you'll always include the full ease allowance and when you cut patterns from these blocks you can alter the ease to suit the design and fabric you're cutting.

22 Feb

Posted at 13:14h in Fitted Dress Block, Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Fitting Tutorials, Pattern Making Instructions by
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My women's fitted block is a tailored, rather formal fit with the side seam sitting towards the back of the body.  The front block is 4cm wider then the back block.  This is a more tailored fitting and entirely appropriate for many garment types.  It's especially fabulous when used to make a a corset block or tailored jacket block.  The PDF download from the website is the original block and ideal for your toile fittings before cutting any dress patterns.  However many designs will work better if you equalise your dress block, in particular drape dress designs.
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