Pattern Alterations Tag

To begin the release of my blocks and patterns I'll be working with a size chart that covers sizes 6-22.  It's the chart that I have used for over 25 years and it has proved to be accurate to many aspects of the Australian market.  However venturing into making sewing patterns I feel the need to expand the sizes in the range.  Some designs will only come in sizes 6-16 while other designs will be graded 6-22.  Make sure you've subscribed to my website newsletter so you hear about new releases.

Back in the land of blogging and I've made a #FirstSample of the Vivienne Drape Dress.  Many of my pattern puzzles start with my Women's Fitted Dress Block (PDF available) and every student builds a pattern plan for the development of this special design.  All-in-all I think it turned out ok.  I will be moving the dip in the waistline a little closer to the centre front (CF) and taking the cut lines for the drape with it.  Checkout the revised pattern plan below.

Fitting Commercial Patterns is a very popular workshop for home sewers and textile teachers.  This week I've been going all-out to improve the workbook materials for this workshop in preparation for some professional development training I'm delivering in Melbourne next week to the Victorian VET textile teachers.  I've decided to share a section of that new workbook in this post, covering the Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) on an existing shirt pattern.

How many times have you experienced this; fabric pooling at the back waist in your dresses and shirts?  Well, I have the Pattern Fix for that!  Unfortunately, there is little we can do to save the sample, but we can do the pattern alteration to make sure it doesn't happen again.

Imogeena has made a special request for grading information for the Gil Brandao Conjunto Pratico.  This design has turned out to be very popular as a self-draft pattern but you can understand how the simple shape may make it confusing to grade for different sizes.  This post has all the grade rules and specific locations (with notes) for growing the pattern.

While I wait for the local pleating house to finish their summer vacation, I'm moving onto the second phase of the Permanent Pleating Series - Garment Pleating.  In this series, I'll be discussing whole garment pleating as originally inspired by the work of Issey Miyake (Pleats Please).

The Patent Blouse has become a favourite top for me after the first set of samples were very wearable.  It has become such a favourite that I managed to wear out my first red sample very quickly.  Unfortunately rayon is not made to last and very soon the surface of the knit was a little shabby with pilling.  I have promised myself that the next red patent blouse will be made in merino.  July 2019:  This pattern has now been added to the website as a PDF download - The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL

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