Pattern Puzzles

18 Nov

Posted at 17:53h in Fashion Design, Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles by
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Last Saturday we all enjoyed a fab conversation about the #PatternPuzzle.  As a bonus, Julie's friend, Lynn Hoffman, shared a fashion history connection with our puzzle and an 1880's polonaise jacket.  When posting the sketch of the puzzle I included images of the historic reference.  It is interesting to see how Lynn made the pattern shape connection with the drape and waterfall of these historic garments.

11 Nov

Posted at 10:28h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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My design this week featured below has a single twist in the front bodice, a turn-back drape on the front hem and a two piece back to maintain the empire fit that holds the bust twist in place.
If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

04 Nov

Posted at 11:08h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Skirt Block by
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With this weeks post of the pattern solution and detail, I must apologise for the delay in posting.  It turns out my original pattern shape was not entirely accurate.  As I prepared this post I realised that the pattern shape would not necessarily achieve the fit I had sketched in the design drawing.  This is not an uncommon problem when translating design drawings to actual patterns, which is why we often have to sample a couple of times to perfect the fit.

28 Oct

Posted at 11:31h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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The sketch below is trend research from 2009 for knitwear, Summer 2011.  I'm usually not a fan of overtly asymmetric cutting and will always feel a little odd if one sleeve is so much shorter than the other.  But with this design, I am strangely compelled to give it a chance.
I think it may look interesting using different knits for each of the panels.

21 Oct

Posted at 12:02h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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This is a typical Pattern Puzzle design that I have chosen specifically for the weird shape the front dress pattern piece can make.   As one pattern piece for the front, it's a strange and very wasteful shape.  Indulgent and fun for a one-of, but not so acceptable for production.  It is more likely that it would be cut in three separate pieces with seams hidden under the large drape tucks in the bust and hip area.

14 Oct

Posted at 12:15h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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You don't need to be a genius to see I am still obsessed with twist patterns.  They certainly suit the whole idea behind my #PatternPuzzles.  This type of jersey twist is not so unusual in the fashion ranges at the moment.  The small and unusual detail of placing the twist off-centre is very appealing, if not a little clever.  If you fancy making this tee shirt, but you're not so keen on pattern making, then you'll find the PDF Sewing Pattern Here.

07 Oct

Posted at 12:30h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway, I didn't notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.

03 Oct

Posted at 12:56h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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Mioara Cretu, a textile teacher from Iassy, Romania submitted the fabulous pattern shape you see below.  Such a challenging shape had our #PatternPuzzlers staying back after school to solve the problem.  With collective zeal Julie Eilber, Alison Calderwood and Karen Vogelsang finally solved the puzzle early Wednesday morning.  Such stamina!
Mioara has a particular interest in clothing made a jersey and admires the Donna Karan idea of the 'one pattern dress' achieved by removing the side seams with clever pattern making.

23 Sep

Posted at 13:40h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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With this design I'm showcasing jersey twists, using two-way stretch (four-way in the US) knit fabric.  The front of the dress features two single twists, with a circular hem panel and an insert fishtail godet in the centre back seam.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double (self-lined), or you use a double knit fabric that is good both sides.  Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.
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