Pattern Puzzles

We know this is an insanely busy time of year and would like to send a huge thank you to everyone who dropped by on the weekend for our #PatternPuzzle.  The shape below is what greeted our fans on Saturday morning on our FB page.  Below is my trade sketch as my best interpretation of the pattern with the intention of cutting this tunic in a light papery taffeta to hold the sculptural effects of the twist.

Solved with lightening speed by Alison Calderwood, Julie Eilber and RedPointTailor, last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle turns out to be a fab summer shift.  The image below has the puzzle shape right way up with some notations to help make sense of the thing.   Some of you may remember the Cowl Tee with Drape and Draped Tee from way back that feature the same kind of drape seam as this weeks puzzle.

This treasure was discovered in the archives of The Metropolitan Museum along with thousands of other beautiful pieces.  Much to my surprise, I discovered that it is a fairly recent design by John Galliano for The House of Dior in 1998.
For this puzzle, the focus is on the skirt and not the tailored halter neck top.  The combination of the well-organised waterfall drape at the back of the skirt and the cowl drape in the front of the skirt was fascinating to me.

In developing the ideas for this puzzle it occurred to me that there are many ways to make a twist skirt pattern.  What came out of that process are the pattern images below that offer two ways to cut a twist skirt.
The sketches below give you an idea of the anticipated results of the different styles of twist.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.   The first sketch and pattern on the left is the single twist, and the sketch and pattern on the right are for the double twist.  In the first, we twist the lower skirt of the main pattern and in the other, we twist two tail shape pieces and join them back to the skirt.

Last Saturday we all enjoyed a fab conversation about the #PatternPuzzle.  As a bonus, Julie's friend, Lynn Hoffman, shared a fashion history connection with our puzzle and an 1880's polonaise jacket.  When posting the sketch of the puzzle I included images of the historic reference.  It is interesting to see how Lynn made the pattern shape connection with the drape and waterfall of these historic garments.

My design this week featured below has a single twist in the front bodice, a turn-back drape on the front hem and a two piece back to maintain the empire fit that holds the bust twist in place.
If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns. For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

With this weeks post of the pattern solution and detail, I must apologise for the delay in posting.  It turns out my original pattern shape was not entirely accurate.  As I prepared this post I realised that the pattern shape would not necessarily achieve the fit I had sketched in the design drawing.  This is not an uncommon problem when translating design drawings to actual patterns, which is why we often have to sample a couple of times to perfect the fit.

The sketch below is trend research from 2009 for knitwear, Summer 2011.  I'm usually not a fan of overtly asymmetric cutting and will always feel a little odd if one sleeve is so much shorter than the other.  But with this design, I am strangely compelled to give it a chance.
I think it may look interesting using different knits for each of the panels.

This is a typical Pattern Puzzle design that I have chosen specifically for the weird shape the front dress pattern piece can make.   As one pattern piece for the front, it's a strange and very wasteful shape.  Indulgent and fun for a one-of, but not so acceptable for production.  It is more likely that it would be cut in three separate pieces with seams hidden under the large drape tucks in the bust and hip area.

I began the puzzle development with the idea that this jersey style would have a raglan sleeve cut in a stretch mesh.  That is, to add a textural contrast and lighten the design.  But the day was a bit of a scorcher and somehow the design morphed into a top with cutaway armholes.  Too many thoughts of warm breezy days on the beach I think.  Anyway, I didn't notice and then posted the pattern shape as a one-piece pattern.  It is important to note that the armholes would be very different for raglan and sleeveless, but all will be explained.
error: This content is protected !!