Pattern Puzzles

To begin, a quick recap of previous posts for the Gil Brandao, Conjunto Pratico.  You can start with the first post, the self-draft instructions for this vintage bodice.  If you think you'd like more detail you can download my detailed worksheet - Vintage Style Pattern Making.  The instructions in the worksheet include information for drafting different sizes, from 6 to 22.  If you're unable to access the worksheet there is a post where I outline the grade rules to make the original draft in to other sizes - Grade Rules - Gil Brandao Conjunto PraticoTaking the vintage bodice further I have a post with the instructions for adding a skirt to the vintage bodice to make and wrap style dress -Vintage Bodice as Dress - Fist Sample.
Vintage Style Pattern Making

The fabulous thing about this pattern is that for many it can be made in a woven or a knit fabric.  The Drape Back Tunic sewing pattern is available as a one-size only pattern with instructions to increase the size and length printed on the pattern.  These images are for the sewing instructions for woven fabrics but I will make notes regarding the sewing instructions you need for knit fabrics.  If you cut this pattern as it is in a woven fabric it'll fit up to Aus Size 12.  If you cut it in a two-way (four-way in the US) stretch knit fabric that has some elastane content it can fit up to a Aus Size 22.

The beauty of this Folk to Fashion zero-waste pattern is that you can select your fabric width to determine different sizing outcomes in the final garment.  And the length of your available fabric will determine the final length of your garment and sleeve.  This garment is an historic pattern called a Eura, believed to be worn as an undergarment around 500-1,000 AD.

This unusual sewing pattern has been featured on my blog for a very long time.  As early as December, 2013.  Right from the very beginning it's been a favourite.  I've made myself at least eight of these tops in a great variety of fabrics: merino/lycra, viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane and rayon/elastane.  It's really important to understand that all fabrics for my samples are two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) with some elastane content (lycra/spandex).  My favourites are the merino/elastane, with a soft, draped handle in both red and black. You can get yourself a copy of this amazing sewing pattern, here on my website: The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL.

It's been a long time in the making, the Morticia Skirt pattern.  Finally it's available as a PDF download in 9 sizes (Sizes 6-22) in the one document download.  It's been designed for woven fabric with a minimum of 2cm (¾") garment ease.  When you print the A0 pattern, you'll find all sorts of information on the sheet to help you select the right size and lay-up and cut your skirt pattern.  There is also a set of sewing instructions included in the PDF download when you buy the pattern.

I simply can't believe that I've never shared my sample makes for this amazing top. I suppose I was so busy turning it into a workshop that missed the obvious.  So you may remember the original post from January 2015 - Pattern Insights - Jersey Twist Patterns.  I used my Women's Knit Block to demonstrate the simplest way to achieve jersey twist patterns.  The same method makes both single and double twist patterns.  This is not the only method for making jersey twist patterns and you'll find other examples on my 'well-suited' blog.

After so many pattern alterations to the first sample pattern, I'm excited to show you how the second sample turned out.  Below you can see the pattern alterations (brown paper) I made to the first sample pattern.  And I've selected a cotton/linen blend for the second sample.  You will find all the first sample and pattern alteration detail in this post:  Sampling the Flare and Gather Dress and Pattern Alterations - Flare and Gather Dress Pattern.
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