Sewing

23 Sep

Posted at 13:10h in Garment Construction, Off-the-Rails Sewing Patterns, Sewing patterns by
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It was over ten years ago that I designed and made this shirt for sale and I've had so many different versions of it in my wardrobe since.  The fit of this shirt is tailored and body conscious with a back yoke, panel seams front and back, a two-piece collar and tab, and a dinner shirt style bib in the front.  There is a short and long sleeve version with the option of cutting the sleeves on either the straight or bias grain.  The Dinner Shirt Sewing Pattern is so versatile in design as to be both a conservative work shirt and fun party shirt in the one pattern.

30 Aug

Posted at 14:28h in Fitting Patterns, Garment Blocks, Pattern Making Instructions, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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This post is specifically dedicated to working a full bust adjustment (FBA) on my knit block.  This particular pattern alteration is important for anyone with a bra cup size above B & C.  Because we are working with knit, I'd prefer not to include a dart in any of my knit patterns.  If you add a Full Bust Adjustment to a woven pattern you'll usually end up with a side seam dart.  For knit patterns I have a different way of dealing with the extra fabric that results from an FBA and that would usually become a dart.
All details following:

24 Apr

Posted at 13:31h in Garment Construction, Pattern Puzzle Sewing Patterns, Sewing patterns by
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The Japan Skirt has it's origin in Japanese folk costume.  It's based on a simple rectangle of fabric, wrapped around the waist.  In this case I've finessed the fit on the waist by including a dart shape in the zip/drape seam.  Even with the dart you'll find the waist of the skirt is positioned more in the low waist area, and is not a tight fit.  If you would like to create a closer fit on the waist you'll find all the details at the end of this post.

28 Sep

Posted at 13:31h in Garment Construction, Pattern Puzzle Sewing Patterns, Pattern Puzzles, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns by
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The Hip Twist Sewing Pattern has been a long time in coming, and I thank all of you for your patience.  The past few months have been less than usual and I've had my focus diverted on other projects closer to home.  Now it's such a pleasure to get back to business and deal with all my wonderful patterns.  You'll get the best results with this pattern by using two-way stretch knit (four-way stretch in the US) that has elastane content (Lycra, Spandex).  I have achieved the best results with rayon, polyester and wool knits with elastane.  Some cotton knits may work if they are not too stiff.
Hip Twist Top Sewing Pattern (PDF download)

30 May

Posted at 14:07h in Garment Construction, Off-the-Rails Sewing Patterns, Sewing, Sewing patterns by
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The Pencil Skirt Sewing Pattern is an absolute classic for your wardrobe.  The complete sewing pattern has a full lining pattern included in the download.  However when you first receive the pattern it is my recommendation that your first make is an unlined version so you have an opportunity to test the fit and make of this new pattern.  For an unlined skirt, I would recommend a medium weight woven fabric and have made myself several version using both quality cotton prints from heirloom cotton patchwork fabrics and stunning African print cotton.  These skirts make the most ideal summer skirts.

28 Apr

Posted at 14:17h in Garment Construction, Pattern Puzzle Sewing Patterns, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns by
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The beauty of this stretch, ponti skirt is the simplicity of its make.  The Drape Tube Skirt pattern has only two pieces: one main pattern piece for the front and back skirt, and one for the narrow waistband.  And for the sewing, there are the drape tucks, two seams, a waistband and a hem to worry about.  Be sure to clearly mark the width of the drape tucks and be aware they need to be sewn about 2.5cm (1") into the skirt to make sure they behave well when you wear your skirt.

19 Aug

Posted at 12:12h in Garment Construction, Pattern Puzzle Sewing Patterns, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns, Vintage Patterns by
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Now that this pattern has been released on the website, it's time to put up some sewing instructions.  The details below are abbreviated instructions.  With the purchase of the PDF sewing pattern you'll receive fully detailed sewing instructions in a separate PDF.
At first the pattern shape appears weird and unusual, as it did for me when I first found this little beauty at the US patent office.  When cutting your own Patent Blouse, please make sure you use two-way stretch knit for the best results (four-way stretch knit in the US).

23 Jul

Posted at 10:40h in Fitted Dress Block, Fitting Patterns, Sewing Pattern Alterations by
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These instructions will help you understand how to shift a side seam bust dart in your patterns or fitted dress block to suit your own bust point.  First you will have to take a couple of measurements to know your bust point location.  Please make sure you're wearing a well-fitted bra.  I cannot stress enough how important it is to have regular bra fittings, with a specialist, to make sure you do in fact have a good fitting.  If the garment you're making is for everyday wear, then the bra you wear when you take these measurements should be the bra you wear everyday.  If however you're making a special occasion dress then consider if the bra will be different or new.  This is very much the case for brides.  No measurements should be taken or calico toiles made until the bride has purchased her special day lingerie.

04 Jul

Posted at 16:39h in Off-the-Rails Sewing Patterns, Sewing Pattern Alterations, Sewing patterns, Stretch Patterns by
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If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves.  For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations.

26 Feb

Posted at 15:04h in Garment Construction, Pattern Puzzle Sewing Patterns, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns by
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I simply can't believe that I've never shared my sample makes for this amazing top. I suppose I was so busy turning it into a workshop that missed the obvious.  So you may remember the original post from January 2015 - Pattern Insights - Jersey Twist Patterns.  I used my Women's Knit Block to demonstrate the simplest way to achieve jersey twist patterns.  The same method makes both single and double twist patterns.  This is not the only method for making jersey twist patterns and you'll find other examples on my 'well-suited' blog.
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