intermediate Tag

Mioara Cretu, a textile teacher from Iassy, Romania submitted the fabulous pattern shape you see below.  Such a challenging shape had our #PatternPuzzlers staying back after school to solve the problem.  With collective zeal Julie Eilber, Alison Calderwood and Karen Vogelsang finally solved the puzzle early Wednesday morning.  Such stamina!
Mioara has a particular interest in clothing made a jersey and admires the Donna Karan idea of the 'one pattern dress' achieved by removing the side seams with clever pattern making.

With this design I'm showcasing jersey twists, using two-way stretch (four-way in the US) knit fabric.  The front of the dress features two single twists, with a circular hem panel and an insert fishtail godet in the centre back seam.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double (self-lined), or you use a double knit fabric that is good both sides.  Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.

So here is the lovely coincidence.  After deciding the pattern development was suitable for the Saturday morning Pattern Puzzle, I then remembered that the design was part of an earlier post about Design Development. There is even some video footage on Youtube showing everyone the design development process - Fashion Design Development - WhiteonWhite Trend 2014

Last week I received an email from CarmencitaB regarding a slightly tricky pattern she has been puzzling with for a little while.  And you all know I love a challenge and the results are in this post.  Firstly some picture references (from CarmencitaB) for the direction we are going in:

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.

This is an idea from my Sketchbook (visual diary), from at least 3-4 years ago.  I believe I found it in a forecast magazine of that time (Textile View).  The design is elegant but may have some inherent problems to be dealt with in the first toile/prototype.   Your fabric choice will be important as the ruching suggests much of this skirt will be cut on the bias and there may be a little tension between the ruching around the thighs and the flare I have drawn into the hem.  I'm also concerned that the gathered hip yoke could be puffy if not sewn well.  I would probably work with a light-weight, finely woven wool suiting as I know from experience that it behaves well when cut on the bias.

The last Pattern Puzzle generated some curiosity so I have decided to take it from the "what a great idea" stage to reality.  This will reveal all potential issues as we work our way through all stages of prototyping to the final sample.
To begin I have a Production sketch with clear front and back views.  For this pattern I am using my undarted kimono block to begin my pattern plan.  When working with this block I tend to work the back and front on top of each other.  The reason is that so much of this block is the same front to back with the exception of the necklines and the shoulder/overarm line.  (If this is not clear please comment and ask - always, always happy to respond).  Pic below is the entire pattern plan, with more detail in the following images.
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