Pattern Making

Now that this pattern has been released on the website, it's time to put up some sewing instructions.  The details below are abbreviated instructions.  With the purchase of the PDF sewing pattern you'll receive fully detailed sewing instructions in a separate PDF.
At first the pattern shape appears weird and unusual, as it did for me when I first found this little beauty at the US patent office.  When cutting your own Patent Blouse, please make sure you use two-way stretch knit for the best results (four-way stretch knit in the US).

These instructions will help you understand how to shift a side seam bust dart in your patterns or fitted dress block to suit your own bust point.  First you will have to take a couple of measurements to know your bust point location.  Please make sure you're wearing a well-fitted bra.  I cannot stress enough how important it is to have regular bra fittings, with a specialist, to make sure you do in fact have a good fitting.  If the garment you're making is for everyday wear, then the bra you wear when you take these measurements should be the bra you wear everyday.  If however you're making a special occasion dress then consider if the bra will be different or new.  This is very much the case for brides.  No measurements should be taken or calico toiles made until the bride has purchased her special day lingerie.

This unusual sewing pattern has been featured on my blog for a very long time.  As early as December, 2013.  Right from the very beginning it's been a favourite.  I've made myself at least eight of these tops in a great variety of fabrics: merino/lycra, viscose/elastane, cotton/elastane and rayon/elastane.  It's really important to understand that all fabrics for my samples are two-way stretch jersey (four-way in the US) with some elastane content (lycra/spandex).  My favourites are the merino/elastane, with a soft, draped handle in both red and black. You can get yourself a copy of this amazing sewing pattern, here on my website: The Patent Blouse Sizes XS-XXL.

If you'd like to get yourself a classic Tee-shirt pattern, my Boat Neck Tee pattern is not overly tight, with soft shaping on the side seam, a boat neckline and three-quarter sleeves.  For most of us the first pattern alteration, depending on the weather, will be sleeve length alterations.

It's been a long time in the making, the Morticia Skirt pattern.  Finally it's available as a PDF download in 9 sizes (Sizes 6-22) in the one document download.  It's been designed for woven fabric with a minimum of 2cm (¾") garment ease.  When you print the A0 pattern, you'll find all sorts of information on the sheet to help you select the right size and lay-up and cut your skirt pattern.  There is also a set of sewing instructions included in the PDF download when you buy the pattern.

I simply can't believe that I've never shared my sample makes for this amazing top. I suppose I was so busy turning it into a workshop that missed the obvious.  So you may remember the original post from January 2015 - Pattern Insights - Jersey Twist Patterns.  I used my Women's Knit Block to demonstrate the simplest way to achieve jersey twist patterns.  The same method makes both single and double twist patterns.  This is not the only method for making jersey twist patterns and you'll find other examples on my 'well-suited' blog.

Since I've been online (6 years now) I've become aware of an enormous love for vintage style out there, and in particular vintage patterns. And in some strange way, these patterns are so familiar to me.  I must have used some of my grandmother's patterns when I was younger because the lack of instructions and complete absence of print on these vintage patterns doesn't confuse or put me off at all.  Somehow it appears to me as a secret code I have to solve to uncover the exact intentions of the designer/pattern maker.

This pattern is one of my 'Off-the-Rails' sewing patterns that I've worked with for many years.  The Boat Neck Tee is a wardrobe classic when cut in a plain cloth and seriously quirky when you mix your print and plain knit fabrics. Although the image below is of a half sleeve tee-shirt, the pattern comes with a three-quarter sleeve.  I'll be adding a post to the blog very soon showing the sleeve pattern alterations for short and long sleeves.
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