Garment Blocks

05 Nov

Posted at 14:33h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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Elegant and flattering, this is an interesting cut in a knit fabric.  By using my Knit Block or your favourite tee shirt patterns, you can self-draft the front pattern piece to drape while leaving the back and sleeve patterns exactly as they are.  It's a looser shape than many drape tops and is cut with a more gentle fitting rather than hugging tight to the body.  That slightly looser, non-grabby tee shirt is always flattering and much easier to wear.

25 Sep

Posted at 14:44h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Womens Skirt Block by
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There have been a few of this variety of skirt gracing the catwalk for the past couple of years.  I have also cut similar for local clients and the beauty of this design is its simplicity for a first attempt at cutting drape patterns. The drape shape is infact separate to the front and back patterns and acts as a decorative overlay for the front skirt.  Start with my Skirt Block and follow the pattern making instructions in this post.  Suggested fabrics:  Crepe weaves with a transparent overlay for the front drape or a satin backed crepe where you are able to reveal the satin back in the cowl of the drape.  If you are interested in more drape skirt patterns you can click through for all the other blog posts.

09 Aug

Posted at 15:03h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Skirt Block by
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For this week's #PatternPuzzle, my initial idea was to make a slim jersey skirt with a #CowlDrape on the Centre Back (CB) seam.  When I started the pattern development I found there was also an opportunity to work some draping magic with the waist shaping (side seam & back dart).  What I came up with is a number of options for this skirt pattern development that should suit everyone's taste and style.  NB These instructions use my skirt block and are for two-way stretch jersey and light weight ponti only.  If you don't fancy making your own pattern, I've just added this PDF pattern to the website for the Drape Tube Skirt in Sizes 6-22.

21 Jul

Posted at 15:14h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles by
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This weeks design follows a current trend for large cross-over tucks as seen in a couple of recent #PatternPuzzles.   I know that I am really pushing the envelope with this style.  To get the drape right in the front and make sure the tucks are holding everything in place will be quite a challenge. This is probably a good opportunity to remind everyone that these puzzles are ideas only, with guidelines for making the pattern. The proof is in the testing and that's a creative and technical journey from a well-fitted dress block through pattern making knowledge in the desire of beautiful creations.

22 Jun

Posted at 15:35h in Pattern Making, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Stretch Patterns, Womens Knit Block by
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About two years ago, in a Draped Dress Patterns workshop, this jersey style came into being.  A combination of Cowl and Twist Drape, it proved to be a fabulous idea for students dealing with their first ever drape pattern.  Using my knit block for these early drape patterns is always a plus.  There is never any question about... ' what to do with the darts!'.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.

09 Jun

Posted at 15:52h in Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Womens Skirt Block by
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This weeks #PatternPuzzle is not an exact copy of the Charles James Skirt but a very do-able pattern for a 101 approach to understanding darts to drape in flat pattern making.  No really, that's what I used to call the workshop; so formal and so academic. :]  This Charles James skirt has so many complex panels that it started to send me a little crazy, so the decision was made to modify and simplify.

19 May

Posted at 16:11h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles by
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The designs used in last Saturdays #PatternPuzzle conversation are the surplus design developments from the Layered Shirt post of a few weeks ago.  They have been lying around on the work table all that time and I didn't have the heart to throw them out.  Then I realised, that was because I really wanted these two tops for myself.  They were just the kind of thing I needed in my wardrobe.  Saved from the shredder, these designs are similar but different enough to entice you to make both.  I will be dealing with them in two separate posts to make sure I cover all the detail. :)

12 May

Posted at 16:17h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles by
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The post is a little late this week as I am totally distracted by work that is going on in the backend of the website, setting up a members area.  We have been working out the best content to make it both attractive and useful to fans and hope to open that members area very soon.  Now back to the #PatternPuzzle that was such fun on Saturday with fans working getting to the answers super-fast.  Then overnight, while I was asleep so many added sketches and photos and in one case an amazing mini-toile.

04 May

Posted at 16:28h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions by
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This week I've showcased #PatternInsights, where I share the light bulb moments in my pattern making career.  In this shirt pattern development, I'm sharing two pattern making moves that early in my career caused me some anxiety.  Anxiety caused by a lack of information and training.  Thank heaven for my hero Natalie Bray!  I am sharing the pattern moves needed to turn my basic fitted (dress) block into a loose-fit block and a basic set of moves to draft a gauntlet placket for a classic shirt sleeve.

27 Apr

Posted at 16:40h in Fitted Dress Block, Pattern Making Instructions, Pattern Puzzles, Vintage Patterns by
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The vintage inspiration for this weeks #PatternPuzzle has come from a pattern I found on the So Vintage Patterns website.  Unfortunately, this particular one has been sold but they have a mountain of great vintage patterns for all eras.  I was attracted by the asymmetrically-set,  diagonal seams with gathered drape.  But not so much the button decoration.  By adding the extra seams I believe I have made it easier to construct as they eliminate the corner seams.  I have also reworked the back view from the original design to carry the front diagonal seams through to the back dress.
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