Garment Blocks

With this design I'm showcasing jersey twists, using two-way stretch (four-way in the US) knit fabric.  The front of the dress features two single twists, with a circular hem panel and an insert fishtail godet in the centre back seam.  If you'd like to learn my method for creating Twist Drape Patterns I have a detailed worksheet for making Jersey Twist Patterns.  For just a few dollars you'll get the same training you'd get if you came to the workshop in my studio.  As they are both single twists it is important that the front is cut double (self-lined), or you use a double knit fabric that is good both sides.  Also essential that the jersey has elastane, that is two-way stretch.

There are so many different kinds of twists in pattern making and I have dealt with a few in this blog.  These single twist styles have one major drawback and that is the fabric you use needs to look as good from the right and the wrong side.  I think this really limits your choices.  If you could get your hands on an extremely light weight double knit that would be fantastic.  You also have to choose your edge finishes (hems) to look good from the front and the back, as both sides are viewed.

The inspiration behind Saturday's Pattern Puzzle has been doing the rounds of a few designers over the past 12 months.  I have cut it at least twice for different clients in the past year.  In the world of drape, it's definitely the new kid on the block.  Simple and uncomplicated this style has a casual and formal application.  I personally like the casual application and plan to make it as a tunic top to go over jeans or a long slim skirt.

Vintage Curiosity to Self-Drafted Pattern Puzzle - Wandering around in Pinterest I re-pinned the images below to my #cuttthatfrock album.  I was fascinated with the strange little pattern diagram on the back of the envelope.  The images claim that this simple shape would make that wrap top and that you can wear it wrapped from the front or the back.  Mmmm... big claims for a simple shape and such sophisticated drawings!  Convinced I could scale this up to make sense of it, I imported the image in to illustrator.

In this second stage, the 'nejiri' Twist evolves into something new.  Continuing on from the earlier photo tutorial post about my investigations into yet more twist patterns.  It's important to remember that the success of these twists depends on using two-way stretch knit.  Both the existing toiles in this test are merino and merino blends with elastane.
Alterations to the first sample included reducing the upper body length to refine the drape and tightening the hip fit so the twist will stay in place.

Following on from the earlier post for the Pattern Puzzle - Empire cowl Knit I have the chance here to detail the manipulation of the pattern pieces to achieve the new design.   Below is the production sketch of the style.  I hope to eventually develop all these styles into pattern making worksheets for the website.
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